Common faults of falling lock
Locks are most commonly used in daily life, because all parts are closed in the lock body, and there is no need to install them when using them, so faults are rarely revealed. Failures such as lock core and lock beam not jumping will be revealed when the lock is used outdoors for a long time.
1. The lock cylinder does not turn
The failure of the lock core not turning is often revealed by the lock that is locked outside the door for a long time and is not often opened. The lock has been exposed to wind, rain and rain for a long time, and corrosion and dirt accumulation have emerged between the lock core and the lock body, making the lock core unable to rotate.
Before troubleshooting, we should seriously check whether the key we hold is this key, and then troubleshoot after confirming that there is no doubt.
The way to get rid of it is to add a small amount of diesel or fuel, wait a while, insert the key and try to open it. If you can’t open it, add some diesel oil or fuel. During the bubble period, gently twist it back and forth with the key until all the moves are closed. Effectively avoid using too much force to break the key.
In addition, there is also a phenomenon that the key tartar is destroyed and the lock is not turned. At this time, the damage of tartar should be carefully searched. If the damage is small, the lock can still be unlocked after repair. If the damage is large, you should find other spare keys to unlock it.
2, the key is not flexible.
The key is not flexible when used for a long time. You can sprinkle some graphite pen face (blue ash) in the keyhole and then switch it on and off several times. Do not add engine oil and lubricating oil to the keyhole, which will affect the marble activity and reveal unexpected opening faults.
3, lock beam does not jump
The failure of the lock beam not to jump is mostly caused by the large tolerance of the lock beam shape and position, and one surface of the lock beam and the lock beam hole is exposed to scraping phenomenon, coupled with corrosion and accumulated dirt, which makes the lock beam unable to jump.
Elimination method: insert the key into the lock core, turn it to the open position, and gently beat the lock body down with a small hammer or pull it down with strength. If the shock does not open, you can add a small amount of fuel or diesel oil to the lock beam, and then gently beat it until the lock beam jumps out. After the lock beam jumps out, use a soft hammer to correct the lock beam, which can be used after repair.
4. The key breaks into the lock body
There are many times when the key breaks into the lock body, and the way to eliminate it should be based on the situation of breaking into the lock body.
(1) The key is broken into the lock body from the root, and a section is reserved in the lock chest. It can be clipped out with small tweezers or tools such as sharp-nosed pliers.
(2) The key is broken into the lock core from the middle part, and it can’t be shaken out. This kind of thing can only be done by removing the seven-pin sealing piece on the lock body, extracting the lock core and the broken key together after the marbles are shaken out, and then reloading the lock core and marbles and sealing them with aluminum wires.
Common faults of bucket lock
1. The key is flexible when inserted and inflexible when pulled out. This kind of end is driven by the deformation of the pin piece, which causes the axial gap of the lock core to be too large. When pulling out, the round-headed marble and the lock pin hole are misaligned, and when inserting, they are reset, so the insertion and removal are not flexible. The way to get rid of it is to remove the lock, debug the pin piece or add a pad to eliminate the gap.
2. The drawer is open and flexible, and the opening resistance increases after the drawer is pushed in. This is a fault triggered by installation. During installation, the lock tongue groove of the upper beam of the bucket is too deep, and the lock tongue scratches the edge of the lock tongue groove, which increases the opening resistance. Just trim the part of the tongue groove of the upper beam of the drawer.
3, after a long period of use, the key is not flexible. You can add graphite pen powder (blue ash) or candles to the keyhole like a lock.
Common faults of tongue-and-ball door lock list
1. After the door lock is closed, the keys and knobs are not flexible to open. Its end is caused by scraping or door deformation exposed by the installation between the lock box and the lock body, which increases the friction resistance between the lock box and the lock tongue. It can be solved by debugging the position of the lock box.
2, the lack of "external insurance" function. This fault is triggered by the reverse installation of the key dial (the key dial should point to the lock tongue when installed). Exclusion is reinstallation.
3. The lock cylinder does not rotate flexibly. Because of the large temperature difference between the inside and outside of the door in winter, the lock core is exposed to corrosion and other phenomena, and the actuating lock core is not flexible to rotate. You can paint candles or graphite pen powder on the key, insert it into the lock core to turn it off, and increase the lubricating oil of the lock core and lock body. Do not add oil to the key tartar or lock core to prevent it from affecting the elasticity of the spring of the gun.